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Tullamore Dew Irish Whiskey

Tullamore Dew
The roll-call of distilleries and brands which disappeared when the Irish industry imploded is an extensive one. Locke's Kilbeggan (now revived under Cooley), Dundalk, Allman's Bandon, Comber and Tullamore are just some of the famous and respected distillers who simply found it impossible to carry on, no matter how good people thought their whiskey was.

Most of the brands simply disappeared, the names of the distillers and their whiskeys slowly slipping into a vaguely remembered past. Some, however, managed to hang on. Tullamore Dew is one of them. It also represents a history of the Irish industry in miniature.

The Tullamore distillery was built in 1829 and was bequeathed to the Daly family in 1857. In 1887, Captain Daly-a man more interested in playing polo, hunting and racing horses - made Daniel E. Williams manager. Williams was a bit like an Irish Jack Daniel, having joined the plant at age 15 and speedily worked his way up to this lofty position. The fact that a country gentleman like Captain Daly was involved in making country whiskey is evidence of how wealthy landowners began to take over from farmer-distillers as the rural population declined and new laws were passed.

Williams expanded the distillery, began exporting and created a new triple distilled pot still brand, Tullamore Dew (the 'Dew' taken from his initials) which was sold with the slogan 'Give Every man His Dew'. The quality of his 8-year-old whiskey even moved that normally crusty old historian Alfred Barnard to poetry. Eventually the Daly family sold their shares to the Williams', but popular though it was, even they couldn't keep the distillery running. In 1954, the Tullamore distillery closed.

It was a tough time for Irish whiskey. The government had, for reasons best know to itself, restricted exports of whiskey during the Second World War arguing that it would ensure ready supplies on the domestic market and continue to bring in guaranteed revenue. The UK government, on the other hand, had decided that while the whiskey industry was run down, some distilleries could stay open and exports should continue. It was a monumental blunder by the Irish. The distillers, meanwhile, were still holding firm to their belief that traditional pot still whiskey was superior to blended Scotch.

When the government raised taxes again in 1952 the writing was on the wall for distillers like the Williams' of Tullamore. No way could the domestic market support so many brands. The Irish may be famous drinkers, but even that was beyond them. In 1953 a survey by the Irish Export Board discovered that 50 per cent of whiskey-drinkers in the States had never heard of Irish whiskey. Irish emigrants now saw themselves as Americans, they had turned their backs on the 'ould country'.

Thankfully, Tullamore Dew was saved when the business was sold to Power's in 1965 and the next year became part of the Irish Distillers portfolio. These days it is owned by Cantrell & Cochrane, though the whiskey is still made at Midleton. A classic blend of traditional pot still with light grain, it's in the lighter end of the spectrum, though a 12-year-old version shows considerably more weight - probably from a higher percentage of pot still.

The overall lightness has endeared it to German and, more recently, American palates. People are interested in the brand once more and Cantrell & Cochrane has opened a heritage centre at the old Tullamore distillery site. All positive enough, but you can't help but wonder, what if...

TASTING NOTES

Tullamore Dew
On the lighter side of the Irish fence. Clean crisp and light, but not hugely exciting. * * Tullamore Dew 12-year-old So different from the standard bottling that you wonder initially if it is from the same stable. Ripe, fleshy and rich, this is the one to try. ***(*)

The World’s Best Chocolate Comes From

You know it’s addictive. You know that it can be fattening. You know that it contains loads of sugar. Has that stopped you? Of course not! It’s chocolate we’re talking about here! Who can give it up? Chocolate is the favorite vice of both young and old. There are so many types out there. You can find practically any kind of chocolate to satisfy even the most finicky among us. Undoubtedly, the worshippers at the altar of chocolate are a vocal bunch. Ask anyone where the best chocolate in the world come from and you’ll get a variety of opinions, but most will agree that Belgian chocolate is among, if not the, best.

Belgian chocolate, as we know it today, evolved during the 19th century, but chocolate itself had been present in Belgium for roughly three centuries already. Today, there are many major brands of Belgian chocolate including Guylian, Côte d’Or and the exquisite Godiva chocolates. Even Leonidas, which is considered to be the cheapest out of all the major brands of Belgian chocolate, has a vast following worldwide.

This can be attributed to the quality of Belgian chocolate, but also the variety available. Unlike many other types, which stick to popular combinations of caramel, raisins and a few classes of nuts, Belgian chocolate displays practically every edible combination possible. Just go to the online catalogue of any big brand. You’ll see sections for truffles, nuts, fruits, white chocolate and a host of other categories. If you can’t find something you like, then you don’t really love chocolate

The ‘melt-in-your-mouth’ consistency of Belgian chocolate has made it a favorite for use in chocolate fountains. This is the latest craze at parties, weddings and many other social events. Chocolate fountains are essentially devices for heating chocolate, which is then transported vertically before flowing over tiers for a waterfall effect. Belgian chocolate is usually high in cocoa butter, giving it the naturally wonderful consistency that is recommended for chocolate fountains.

Chocolate fountains are also a lot easier to obtain than a traditional wedding cake. There’s no need to pay someone tons of money for an intricate design and you don’t have to worry about anything falling apart on the big day. A growing number of catering companies offer chocolate fountains as an alternative and they’re usually a big hit with guests, who can unleash their inner child by dipping strawberries, marshmallows and anything else you give them, in the cascading Belgian chocolate.